Mt. Adams, Washington
July 4-7, 2003

During the Independence Day weekend of 2003, Karen and I went for a three-day backpack trip to the lower slopes of Mt. Adams, a 12,300 foot high volcano in Washington state. Mt. Adams is not nearly as well-known as Mt. Rainier, perhaps because it is nearly 2,000 feet shorter and is located far away from Seattle. It has, however, about twice the bulk of Rainier and possesses a magnificent presence in itself. One of the advantages of hiking here, for wilderness lovers, is that there are relatively few hikers compared to trails nearer Seattle and Portland.

Our hike led us on a series of trails, several still covered with snow, including the Stagman Ridge Trail and portions of the Highline and Pacific Crest Trails. We camped two nights at Looking Glass Lake, which is actually a pond that beautifully reflects Mt. Adams when the wind isn't blowing (we presume, but don't really know, since the wind constantly rippled the surface during our stay).

The following photographs and observations reflect our sensory experiences on this wonderful early summer trip.

From our campsite at Looking Glass Lake, we had a terrific view of Mt. Adams when evening alpenglow touched the rugged ridges and sensuous snowfields. This was a quiet place, occasionally punctuated by the lonely flute-like call of the Hermit Thrush, which may be the most beautiful bird song in North America.
The trail to Looking Glass Lake included a challenging stream crossing. The warm temperatures this weekend were melting the remnant snowfields, filling the streams tumbling down the mountain with bone-chilling water. We weren't sure about crossing this fast and steep stream, but we sucked up our courage and found that it wasn't that difficult. We did get numb feet, but warm sunshine took care of that. (Photo by Karen Rentz)
Near our campsite there was a tiny subalpine meadow decorated with pink phlox and other scattered wildflowers. We observed this Western Tiger Swallowtail dancing from phlox to phlox, feeding exclusively on this species. Occasionally this swallowtail was chased by a fritillary butterfly, then it was chased completely from the meadow by a paler species of swallowtail, which then proceeded to feed on the few dandelion-like flowers in the meadow. This was our first experience just watching the interspecific behavior of butterflies, and it was fascinating.
As the snowbanks melted away, the perennial wildflowers emerged from their long winter spent as roots and bulbs underground. This False Hellebore rises gracefully from Horseshoe Meadows.
On the second day we hiked up to Horseshoe Meadows, which was still largely covered with snow and shallow meltwater pools. In the meadows we had a magnificent view of Mt. Adams, but it was the natural details of the area that we found especially fascinating. Here we encountered this brilliant orange slime mold.

Slime molds are amazing creatures, neither plant nor animal, that can actually move, albeit slowly, in search of food. This specimen is a single giant cell with numerous nucleii, and it appeared to be getting nutrition from a cache of pocket gopher dung. The streaming mass of protoplasm reminds me of the movie "The Blob," which terrified me as a child. In the film, a mass about this size, which had arrived from outer space, jumped onto a man's hand and eventually absorbed his whole body. Fortunately, slime molds haven't yet learned this trick (as far as I know!).

On the meadow fringes we observed a flock of Pine Siskins, a small bird related to the American Goldfinch that winters in the lowlands of Puget Sound where we live, feeding daily at our bird feeders. The highlight of Horseshoe Meadows was seeing a ghostly Prairie Falcon ripping through the scattered patches of forest in search of prey.

Other birds observed on our hike included a Hairy Woodpecker pair carrying food and entering a nest hole; a Turkey Vulture silhouetted against the icy peak; Gray Jays coming to investigate our camp; awakening to two different calls of a Clark's Nutcracker; and finding a Dark-eyed Junco nest with five eggs in a wet meadow (we saw the adult fly up from the nest).

Since snow completely covered some of the trails we wanted to hike, making route finding difficult, we decided to hike out a day early and spend the fourth and final day of our trip exploring some of the region around Mt. Adams.

As we approached the trailhead, we encountered a Blue Grouse. The grouse walked from one side of the trail to the other, several times doing an odd circle dance, then it disappeared into a thicket, where it continuously made loud clucking noises. When we stepped closer, it flew about 30' up to a side branch of a conifer. Then it flew to another tree, then another, then still another--all the while loudly clucking. We thought it might have a nest in the area and walked around to investigate. When I very nearly stepped on a fuzzy tennis ball of a grouse chick, we understood the grouse's distress. We scurried away, not wishing to further disturb the mother grouse and her young.

When we reached the trailhead, we decided to camp there. That evening we watched as Common Nighthawks engaged in aerial combat over the canyon below.

The next day we explored the lava beds and huckleberry meadows surrounding Mt. Adams.

The pocket gopher lives nearly its entire life underground in a maze of tunnels. In the winter it pushes dirt out of its burrow entrance into tunnels under the snow, creating these cores of earth that appear when the snow melts in the spring. Although I've seen these earth cores many times in the mountains, I have yet to see a pocket gopher.
In Horseshoe Meadows there were extensive patches of "Watermelon Snow." This snow is stained by a dense population of algae; apparently the red color is a pigment that shields this microscopic plant from the intense UV radiation that bombards the high country. Did you realize that even plants need sunscreen?

Watermelon snow, despite its colorful name, is actually mildly toxic to humans, causing intestinal distress--one more reason to filter water while backpacking in the mountains.

The vast huckleberry meadows around Mt. Adams were used for generation after generation of Indians as an important source of late summer food.

In 1932, the Sawtooth Huckleberry Fields were partitioned to allow exclusive use of one side of the road by Indians. This agreement was known as "The Handshake Agreement," and it still stands. In fact, the U.S. Forest Service maintains a campground there exclusively for use by Indians.

It was 90 degrees F when we explored the lava beds surrounding Mt. Adams; therefore it was an incredible relief to descend into a lava tube (cave) and feel the temperature drop to the freezing level. We explored part of the cave using our headlamps for light, where we found stalagmites and stalactites of clear ice. (Photo by Karen Rentz)
Stories and photographs Copyright © 2004 by Lee Rentz
My most memorable photograph of the trip was a five- hour exposure of the night sky from our camp on Looking Glass Lake. The arcs of light over the mountain are the tracings of stars as the earth turns. A sliver of moon arose late in the exposure, illuminating the glaciers and rock of Mt. Adams. Until the early 1950s, frequent mule trains brought pack loads of sulfur down from a mine on the mountaintop.
LEE RENTZ PHOTOGRAPHY
Copyright © 2004 by Lee Rentz. All rights reserved.
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